NOT a model airplane, but augered in just the same

Started by stetto, September 17, 2012, 08:01:49 AM

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stetto

Looky what I got for free from a friend!



'Cept for one small detail:










I have discovered that warmed vinegar dissolves wood glue. I already have this terrible display of stone knives and bearskins style repair apart and clean and am going to try and set this to right...I'm told (by guitar builders) that though I can reattach the headstock better than what you see here, my best bet would be to saw the neck off and rout a seat for a bolt-on neck. The neck is made of mahogany, one of the worst woods to be used for guitar necks, beyond balsa, that is... :icon_wink:

I was planning to use good old fashioned hide glue, just like real luthiers do, but I'm told there's a trick to hide glue and I don't want to invest in a "glue pot" and other assorted tools, so I'm going with ProBond aliphalic.

...So if you aren't using them for anything else right now, cross your fingers for me.

Onepoint

 I would just use 30 minute epoxy and spray paint myself. But I guess that's why most people don't have me fix wood stuff much.  :disturbed:

Frazz

LOL surely you have a roll of pink monokote around somewhere.  Good luck and looks like a fun project actually. 
To understand true love, lock your dog and your wife in the trunk of your car for an hour and then see which one is glad to see you when you come back

balsum fractus

aw heck, a little CA and some duct tape, and no one would no the difference....


Still need to score a Fender though.......

stetto

Actually I don't care what it looks like when done, just want it to hold string tension.

I went ahead and used Titebond carpenters glue and clamped the crap out of it. It feels pretty stout this morning, but I'm going to give it a couple days to cure up. Then I'm going to *gulp* attempt to rout a large channel in the back and insert a maple spline, just to add strength. I'm considering using epoxy for that part.

Problem is that there are no square opposing surfaces--Clamping is no fun. I had to do a dozen dry runs before I figured out best placement of the clamps I used. Funny thing  :eusa_doh: is that when I got the edges lined up where they belonged, none of the previous guy's cuts were right. It's-a goan-a be-a one-a ug-a-ly piece-a work.... :icon_mrgreen:

stetto

A few progress photos:


Slowly separating with heated vinegar:


The separated pieces. Note the smaller chunk on the left. This "repair" was re-shaped after it was glued, so parts won't look very well lined up when repositioned.


After repositioning, glue (Elmer's ProBond aliphalic) and some creative clamping (amazing how few parallel opposing surfaces there are in this "neck" o' the woods)








As poor as this bond looks, it is rigid and feels very strong. I flooded the surfaces with wood glue and likely wiped off more excess than was left in the joint, but voids and crevices were well-filled. If not for the previous tinkerer I could have gotten even tighter tolerances.

Considering the amount of glue used I'm going to let this set for a week before doing any more with it, which will involve *gulp* routing a channel in the back to install a substantial maple spline. I will attempt to dress it up some with wood filler and a sealer, but looks aren't my goal...

jetmex

Stetto, this may sound a little odd, and I don't know if it will affect the sound, but after you get that repair sanded smooth, wrap the joint with some light fiberglass cloth. I'm thinking it might add some strength to the joint, and might also cover up some of the pits and holes in the wood.  Just a thought...

stetto

Gad, but you baling wire modelers are consistant! And predictable...I was suggested to try this:

http://frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Structural/BrokenHeadstocks/BackstrapOverlay/phoverlay.html

I bet I could do it with modeling tools, but it sure looks time consuming, and I'd like to play this guitar before I die... :sadness:

jetmex

I beg your pardon, sir, but I also happen to be a licensed aviation maintenance technician and I do not appreciate your obvious disdain of bailing wire.  You apparently are not aware of the wonderful repair opportunities brought about by said wire, though you were willing to use the amateur's fix-all, duct tape.  Damn ground pounders....  :disturbed:

I do however, just happen to have some chrome finish FAA-approved 1000 mile per hour speed tape in my tool box that I'd be happy to send you.

stetto

So I changed my mind. I'm going to grind off an 1/8th inch from the back of the headstock and laminate a 1/8th inch maple sheet, then do the same to the top of the headstock with 1/16th inch maple. It'll give me the strength I need for string tension AND allow me to cover the nasty crack (I know, opening for a bad, bad Oprah joke)...

Heh, and here's the kicker: I had to go to National Balsa to buy the maple sheets...Started drooling over a Ziroli kit while I was at it! :disturbed:

balsum fractus


stetto

Hey guys, the old modelling skills came through!



























Gonna play it for a few weeks, make sure the repair will hold, then the strings and hardware come back off and stain and clearcoat will go on. This turned out better than I ever imagined. It will be ugly to guitar purists, but I ain't one of those. It plays really nice...

Onepoint


balsum fractus

well done!!  could you do us a favor and throw something on you tube, so we can listen to it too??

zrct02